Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

Once again, we have chosen the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) as our principal area to explore the splendors of the Arctic and the Brooks Range. Spending the previous year exploring the entire Brooks Range has reinforced my opinion that the Refuge is THE precious gem in this majestic system. Located in the extreme northeast corner of Alaska, the Arctic Refuge offers a unique opportunity to intimately explore a wide array of habitats and environments within a relatively short distance. Nowhere else is the topographic relief so dramatic, 50 miles south of the ocean stands the tallest mountain in the Range. This compression of habitats dramatically increases the number of ecological niches visited and thus exposes a much wider variety of species. Within its nearly 20 million acres, over 130 species of birds from four continents, 36 land mammals including all three bears of North America, wolves, wolverines, caribou, moose, big horn sheep, and muskox and 9 marine mammals can be found. This is truly one of the crown jewels of the National Wildlife Refuge system.

Arctic Float Trips

STANDARD KONGAKUT

10 days, Mid June - first week of August

The Kongakut is without exception our premier float trip; superb day hikes, fun whitewater and diverse wildlife. It also can be one of the best ways to witness the great caribou spectacle of the Arctic Refuge. Traditionally, the Kongakut is a short 40 mile run that flows through a narrow corridor of emerald mountains with groups ending in the foothills. This year's trips will continue through the entire foothills section (the river's most productive wildlife habitat), out across the flower studded coastal plain and end at the icy shores of the Arctic Ocean making the best trip even better! We feel confident that you will find no more complete explorations of the Arctic Refuge's north slope. Birders will have a heyday exploring so many habitats. A typical day includes half day float, lunch and an afternoon ridge walk before dinner. A couple of days we hike all day. Boating enthusiasts will enjoy the middle section of the river as it spills through a turbulent gorge before breaking out into lower more benign hills and flatter water. Imagine beginning your adventure surrounded by towering mountains and ending at the shore of the turquoise waters of the Arctic Ocean studded with bergs from the polar ice cap! We've timed the departures to optimize the encounters with the Porcupine Caribou herd.

ULTIMATE KONGAKUT

12 days, July

LOWER KONGAKUT RIVER

8 days, July

Most floats offered in the Refuge overlook the coastal plain habitat which is ashame. Though not the commanding mountain scenery, the coastal plain is a dominant image that captivates ones sense of scale and perspective. We will float through some very productive foothills habitat before striking out across the coastal plain to salt water. Once along the coast, a whole new frontier awaits. Shorebirds and waterfowl are everywhere. Arctic foxes and ringed seals patroll the shallow water and coastline and more exotic species like Beluga whales and polar bears wander by on occation. Large trees washed down the McKensie to the east add a curious dimension to this treeless country. This is a wonderful opportunity to discover some of the most remote places in the Refuge.

MARSH FORK AND CANNING RIVERS

12 days, Mid June - first week of August

This western branch of the Canning runs through the heart of the Philip Smith Mountains - ancient seabeds swirled in chaotic layers and stacked in impossibly vertical heaps. The Marsh Fork is a clear water fish bearing stream that has a few long sections of rock garden fun to break up the peaceful braids that comprise most of the float. Like the better known Kongakut, there are endless day hiking possibilities. Because of the popularity of the Long version of the Kongakut, we have added the bulk of the Main Branch of the Canning trip to get us nearly all the way to the Arctic Ocean. This now expands the perspective to include all the striking habitats of the Brooks Range's north slope. The geology, with its numerous anomalies and erratics is the clear super star to this show, though wildlife is a constant companion. Probably the most common animals along this section are sheep, wolves and bears, though moose, caribou and wolverines can be spotted. By added the lower Canning we have greatly expanded the birding possibilities as well. This is a spectacular overview of the Arctic via an 80 mile canoe trip.

IVISHAK RIVER

10 days, Late June (caution: water levels are predictably tentative)

We floated the Ivishak years ago on a custom trip and advertised it several years afterwards without any more interest and then dropped it. The western portion of the Refuge is its most remote area. As more people come to float in the Refuge, solitude is becoming harder to find (on the river). But the experience you could find 15 years ago anywhere in the Refuge still can be found here despite the fact that the Ivishak is a federally recognized Wild and Scenic river. Low water conditions and no name recognition are the only thing that protects this remarkable experience. Using inflatable canoes, we will mix paddling and day hiking in nearly equal parts. The fractured limestone makes for numerous mind boggling artesian springs in the upper end and large pans of aufeis in the foothills. We'll float though both the mountains and foothills all the way to the confluence of the Sag River. Here we will be picked up by van on the Dalton Haul Road and driven all the way back to Fairbanks. The van ride will be a epic road trip - icing on the cake. We'll see sheep, the Alaska pipeline, the Yukon River, 3 different mountain ranges and much of the country that was burned in our record breaking wildfire season. The smaller boats should solve the low water problems and the no name recognition will be our secret.

BEAUFORT LAGOON

7 days, July - early August

We will paddle along the eastern half of the Arctic Refuge's coast line, mostly within the lagoon system. At one point we will need to venture out into the sea to round Griffin Point before returning to the next lagoon and our passage to Barter Island. This is extreme country that has nurtured the Inupiat culture for an eon. Join this unique adventure and explore the abundance that lies where the polar sea splashes up on the northern continental edge. Prior boating experience is required. Expect to see constant passing racks of sea ducks, resident pairs of loon and snowy owls, small groups of wondering land mammals like caribou, muskox and grizzly bears, seals and perhaps other marine mammals. The coastal shore is littered with numerous skeletal silver driftwood washed down from Canada's Mackenzie River which is just the most obvious invitation to hours of great beach combing. The outside shore is also cluttered with an array of bergy pieces for the polar ice cap which has recently moved north.

CANNING RIVER

10 days, Mid June - August

This peaceful run down the Canning is a fine way to sample nearly all of the network of habitats on the North Slope of the Brooks Range than this. This float begins just north of the Continental Divide flows past several wonderful mountain hiking opportunities before flowing out over the very productive foothills and coastal plain areas. With fish in its emerald green water and numerous cliffs along the entire trip, this is superior habitat for very many species of birds. Of particular interest are gyrfalcon, peregrine falcon, rough-legged hawk, four species of loons including yellow-billed, arctic warbler, long-tailed Jaeger, American golden plover, northern wheatear and many many others. We have always had exceptional luck watching large mammals along this run and have named a section after the numerous muskox that utilize the area. Last year we found an impressive paleoindian site on the last bluffs overlooking the coastal plain. The trip ends at a bluff which overlooks the remaining coastal plain and Arctic Ocean. The last evening the sun sweeps over top of the arctic ocean horizon all night. It is an unforgettable ending to an impressionable trip.

AICHILIK

Unfortunately access to the upper Aichilik has vanished by river erosion and a safe location has yet to be found. Until that time, we are suspending standard float trips and accessing this area via pack rafting trips.

The Aichilik has long been one of my favorite valleys in the Refuge. Unfortunately access has been limited in the spring to remediate impact at the landing strips. It has been years since we have done a trip here and we have decided to reintroduce a classic outing later in the year once the landing strip has dried up and hardened. The upper end of the trip has wonderful side hikes and a solid and varied resident wildlife population. Breaking out past the foothills we will float the lower river across the coastal plain to the lagoon system of the Arctic Ocean. This habitat has a unique subset of animals and birds to discover as well as a haunting beauty of the eerily Caribbean blue Arctic Ocean. If you become too confused the water temperature will remind you where you are. The evenings will be powerful displays of prolonged sunsets and only slightly dim until the sun reemerges from the northern horizon. We will use inflatable canoes to better navigate the braided channels of this intimate shallow stream.

WIND RIVER

10 days, Early June - August

The Wind River has earned a Federal Wind and Scenic designation and still remains one of the Refuge's best kept secrets. Perhaps the remoteness is the most attractive feature of this trip. Less than 5 parties a year float it. Easy access to relative high ground enables us to climb above the river to get a view of the entire valley floor each day. These hikes also provide our best opportunity for viewing wildlife. Unlike most other nearby rivers, the Wind is a bit of a migratory flyway for multiple species of waterfowl leaving the north slope. The river originates in the open tundra of the southern flanks of the Philip Smith Mountains and flows south into the boreal forests. The river feels actually like 3 rivers in one, with a shallow braided section in the upper mountains, a slow meandering single channel through an open lake studded step and finally loaded with whitewater excitement ricocheting back and forth in the forest section. Autumn colors are nearing climax and if you can stay up late enough for the sky to darken, the northern lights should be brewing.

SHEENJEK RIVER

10 days, Mid June - August

The Sheenjek is another federally designated wild and scenic waterway and is quite similar to the Wind. This trip is longer than the Wind requiring more paddling with less hiking opportunities. We spend more time in the boreal forest habitat and there is something about the chemistry of the river that supports a rich fish population. This in turn supports a wider array of wildlife that exploits the fish; it is not uncommon to see bald eagles and osprey fishing from the trees and otters and mink from the bank. The lower river has numerous beavers. Every fall there is a passage of caribou that cross through this country on their way to their wintering ground. Autumn is in full swing and the tundra is ablaze in fall color, these views are priceless and set with blue sky and snow covered peaks in the background they become unforgettable. Moose and caribou will be seen in their prime breeding coats and waterfowl will be staging on the numerous lakes along the way. The evening sky now dark is rich with aurora displays and will complement the sights of the day nicely - everything is Kodachrome perfect.

JUNJIK RIVER

7 days, Mid June - August

This is a condensed version of the Wind River for those on a limited time budget or linking with the Philip Smith hiking trip. We begin at a charming lake slightly above treeline and paddle all the way back to Arctic Village (~60 miles) through open spruce forests, high bare limestone cliffs and numerous kettle lakes. The route and countryside are extremely similar to the Wind (they are nearly adjacent).

Backpacking Trips

SPRING CARIBOU CORRIDOR

10 days, June

Last year we were provoked to rediscover a route we hadn't used for 10 years. It was incredible and incredibly different. We realized that at the right time this area is packed with caribou. We begin in lonesome and remote country near Canada and hop on this caribou track down into the Kongakut River. We finish the trip in an area on the river we call "the caribahn" a superhighway of migrating deer. With luck they will be constant traveling companions. The mountains are in all their glory and you will be especially overwhelmed by the canyons we have chosen to explore. This is a classic Arctic Refuge experience.

KONGAKUT HEADWATERS HIKE

10 days, June

The first hiking trip of the season is always my favorite trip of the year. It is a natural classic. The year we plan to start at tree line along the Sheenjek River and hike over the continental divide into the upper Kongakut. Typically there is a sprinkling of caribou scattered through this country lazily feeding on the budding shrubs. The upper river is big, open, impressive and much less visited than the lower canyon. All the while breeding songbirds serenade at almost every hour and the sun never sets. We have built in plenty of time for afternoon optional day hikes to climb nearby ridges and mountaintops for the better big picture. Each year this trip finds the most varied wildlife and all this before the mosquitoes hatch; this trip is a buzzer beatin' half court swish! It also makes a great combination trip for those that have time to continue down the river on the 10 day float trip.

COASTAL PLAIN TRAVERSE - EAST

6 days, Late June - early July

This is a very accessible trip for those short on time, but eager to encounter a diverse array of habitats and possibly a significant interception with the caribou herd. We begin in the northern foothills and wander in them for the first half of the trip before turning north to cross the last 10 miles of coastal plain to reach the shores of Demarcation Bay (or the end of the continent)! Always great for wildlife observation, you will not be disappointed by the subtle rolling terrain. Besides, you can tell your friends when you get home that you took a dip in the Arctic Ocean.

FRONT RANGE TRAVERSE

10 days, Late June and August

When the caribou invade the coastal plain annually they overwhelm the landscape. The post calving return to the mountains is less predictable than the outbound migration, but with members of the entire herd including the 3 week old calves it is sight to cherish. We have planted a route that should combine a good opportunity to see them as well as some of the other fine residents like bears, wolves and muskox. Our route, slightly different from the one we've been using lately, begins along the foothills - the richest area for wildlife in the Refuge. The majority of the hike is in this especially scenic country and includes two Wilderness Alaska 'all time favorite spots'. One is wildlife power spot and the other is a glorious narrow canyon. As our journey comes to a close we will head north and reach a pick-up spot less than 10 miles from the Arctic Ocean.

MARSH FORK HEADWATERS

8 days, June - August

All life forms that have been shackled by winter's long controlling grip explode in response to the warmth of an ever present sun. Birds frantically defend nests, flowers bloom and mammals nurture newborns. Its tough to sleep on trips at this time of year with so much to see. We have put a gentler trip in this timeframe so no one will be intimidated from visiting this glory. This is only 20 - 25 mile long route meaning you will spend much more time exploring without packs than with. The route links the south side to the north side through a narrow corridor between wildly layered metamorphic rock. Expect the geology to eclipse wildlife on this trip./p>

SADLEROCHIT MOUNTAINS TRAVERSE

10 days, July - August

Three parallel ranges of mountains sit just north of the core of the Brooks Range. They provide a lush refugia for a wide variety of species from the open coastal plain just to the north. We will start at the west end in the core mountain area and weave our way through these three poly chromatic ranges and end on the east side of them with a view of the ocean. Halfway through the trip we hike along what I think is the prettiest canyon in the Refuge. Autumn will have begun to touch the vegetation and it will blend nicely with the color of the hills. We should see many of the animals that seek out this refuge, find a wide array of marine fossils, and toward the end of the trip we will be able to find much evidence of the paleoindian culture that arose here.

SADLEROCHIT RIVER CANYON

10 days, June - August

This is a slightly shorter version of the traverse described above. In fact, they share the same route during the last few days. However this trip begins at the headwaters of the Sadlerochit River and follows it through what might be the prettiest canyon in the Refuge.This is small intimate terrain of stair stepping ledges carved fantastically in black shale. Water clear as glass tumbles over the numerous ledges animating the country with motion and sound. Along the entire length are grand views of Mt. Chamberlain, one of the most commanding peaks in the Brooks Range. The same great possibilities of wildlife viewing, fossil finding and archeological sites exist on this route as the longer traverse.

COASTAL PLAIN TRAVERSE - WEST

10 days, Late June and August

This is a trip that we ran a few times when the threat of oil and gas development was much more intense (knock on wood). With the current situation in Washington the threat may resurface at any moment. The 1002 lands of the Refuge lie just north of the mountains and continue to the coast. This is a country of openness and rolling terrain. The expanses are intimidating an impressive. Their status has yet been defined by Congress and the oil industry has always coveted them. This is a chance to walk from foothills to coast across this disputed habitat and make up your own mind - frozen barren wasteland or wonderland of arctic beauty.

CARIBOU PASS - MOUNTAIN CIRCUIT

Late June and August

This is a pioneering trip which combines legs of two previous trips to form a loop. The countryside of this trip is absolutely remarkable. At the halfway point the scenery is a spell bounding facade of dark jagged mountains. Because we travel along a spring caribou corridor, I believe we should also have quite good luck with wildlife as well. This is fall in the Arctic and the colors in the tundra are brilliant golds and reds. Be advised that this trip is longer distance than most of our others and will require more endurance, but the rewards will be equally greater.

PHILIP SMITH MOUNTAINS - BOOTS AND BOATS

15 days, August

This classic returns to the line up by popular demand for a premier combination trip. We begin from a lake on the north side of the continental divide and hike south through the tortured limestone country that marks these mountains over a high mountain pass and down to another lake near tree line. From here we switch to boats and float down the Junjik River to Arctic Village at the southern flank of the Brooks Range. Clearly it is the stark figured towers of gray limestone that make the greatest impression in this area. Though as we move south you will slowly begin to see a change and diversity develop in the country side and by the end of the trip we will be in the spruce forests of an entirely different world. This is lonesome country best suited to sheep and bears.

Basecamp Trips

EARLY ARCTIC BASECAMP

Custom Dates Available, call to schedule or inquire

Every year this trip has been a home run. We have established a basecamp high in the picture perfect glaciated Hula Hula valley on the Brooks Range's north slope. Because of anomalous geographic conditions, this valley is prone to an early break-up. The last two years we have been treated to an early greening and a rush of blooming flowers. Each day we spend hiking in a different direction, climbing ridges and peaks for panoramic views. Because of these more benign weather conditions, this area has one of the highest densities of dall sheep in the Brooks and we have great encounters daily. An optional part of the trip, we can arrange a flight seeing trip over the coastal plain and calving caribou. This flight has always been the highlight. Before bugs and people, this is a truly incredible opportunity to immerse in quiet wilderness. Because of the uncertainty of conditions at this time we have a back-up south slope plan in case conditions are too hostile for our north slope camp.

POST CALVING CARIBOU MIGRATION BASECAMP

Custom Dates Available, call to schedule or inquire

This is an incredibly popular trip, the Out of Africa remake. Without question, the Refuge is decorated like a 40' Christmas tree; flowers blooming throughout a rich green field of tundra, birds singing continually throughout 24 hours of brilliant sunlight and with luck thousands of caribou slowly parading by. We will try to select the best possible location depending both on the caribou and other people attracted to the same phenomenon. But any spot during this special time will prove to be the best present of the season.

AUTUMN BASECAMP

Custom Dates Available, call to schedule or inquire

Truly a dynamic shift occurs in the Arctic during early September. The night sky has returned with each day loosing 10 minutes of sunshine. The darkness invites the opportunity to witness another great Alaskan phenomenon, the auroras. After a day of hiking surrounded by spectacular fall colors one can sit comfortably in camp take in a sunset that last for over 2 hours and the can erupt into curtains of astronomical color. Talk about fodder for wild dreams! We will choose a location on the south side of the Brooks Range just before our trip that will provide the most productive wildlife viewing and make the most of our short sweet stay over the Arctic Circle.